Why Fibre Grade Matters
Hemp fibre sourced from India comes in a wide range of processing stages and quality levels. Specifying the wrong grade can mean fibre that's too coarse for your textile application, or paying a premium for processing you don't need.
Understanding the grading system helps you communicate precisely with suppliers, compare quotes accurately, and avoid costly mismatches.
The Four Main Grades
1. Raw Decorticated Bast Fibre
The most basic processing stage. The woody core (hurd) has been mechanically separated from the bast fibre, but no further processing has been done.
Best for: Composites, insulation, nonwovens, geotextiles, paper pulp
2. Retted Fibre (Water or Dew Retted)
Biological retting breaks down the pectin binding fibre bundles, resulting in softer, more separated fibres. Water retting produces finer fibre than dew retting.
Best for: Coarse textiles, rope, cordage, industrial fabrics, blended yarns
3. Degummed Fibre
Chemical or enzymatic processing removes lignin and pectin, producing clean, soft, spinnable fibre. This is the standard for textile-grade hemp.
Best for: Apparel textiles, home furnishings, premium blended fabrics
4. Cottonized Hemp
The most processed grade. Fibre is cut to short staple length (15-38mm) and processed to feel and behave like cotton. Can be spun on cotton spinning equipment.
Best for: Cotton-hemp blends, fashion apparel, sustainable fashion brands
How to Write a Clear RFQ for Hemp Fibre
A well-written RFQ saves time and gets you more accurate quotes. Include these details:
- Grade: Specify the processing level (raw, retted, degummed, cottonized)
- Fibre length range: Critical for spinning and processing compatibility
- Quantity: In metric tons (MT) or kilograms
- End application: Helps suppliers recommend the right grade
- Certifications needed: GOTS, OEKO-TEX, organic, etc.
- Packaging requirements: Bales, bags, or custom packaging
- Destination & Incoterm: FOB, CIF, or DDP
Quality Red Flags to Watch For
- Moisture content above 14% — risk of mold during shipping
- Excessive hurd content in bast fibre — poor decortication
- Inconsistent fibre length — indicates mixed batches
- No COA (Certificate of Analysis) available
- Supplier unwilling to send samples before bulk order
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